Tupiza and Salar de Uyuni

Tupiza is a village known for being the place of death of Buch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. Not sure to what extent they are known amongst the average Canadian in their 20s, but I had never heard of them. But hey, i'm an immigrant. They are legendary outlaws from the States who robbed one bank too many and so escaped to Bolivia. They met their demise in Tupiza. (There is a movie made about them starring Paul Newman and Robert Redford. Maybe most people would know the movie?)

That is what Tupiza is known for. Appropriately, its surrounding mountains and landscapes remind you of the Wild West. We took a tour on horseback, which was enjoyable except for when the horses started galloping and I was sure I would be flung off and break my back bone and never walk again. But luckily, my horse seemed to like me enough not to do that.

From Tupiza, my sister and I had planned to take a 4-day tour of the Salar de Uyuni and its lakes nearby. We had already called the tour agency, and they were waiting for us when we got there, but when we got there they told us they cant send out a tour today because there is too much rain. So we'd have to wait until the next day.

But we were pressed for time, since my sister had a flight to catch on Monday. So our only hope was to go to Uyuni and take a 3 day tour from there. To see the actual salt lake, you can just take a day trip from Uyuni, but if you want to see all the beautiful lagunas (lakes) nearby and the flamingos that rest there you have to take a tour that is longer. From Uyuni, you can take a 3 day tour and from Tupiza, a 4 day tour.

We took the train to Uyuni, and this went smoothly. We hoped to catch a 3 day tour departing from Uyuni the following day. However, when we asked around the tour agencies, most of them said they also cant leave that day because there is too much water. Or the ones that were leaving said the 3 day tour might end up being a 4 day tour because of the rain. Soooo, my sister and I settled on a 1 night 2 day tour, and our night would be spent IN the salt lake, in a hotel made of salt.

http://test.inspera.no/kursweb/jarle/sa/img_182.jpg


The salt lake it not a normal lake. Hard to describe, so take a look here at some photos: (they're not my pictures)

http://www.etravelphotos.com/bolivia/2000sa-026-72s.html

http://www.kayestler.de/chile_bolivien_peru/salar.jpg


When it is dry season and there is no water, you can see the top layer of the salt that has dried and makes a thick layer. They say there are about 11 layers, each layer being anywhere between 2-10 m thick. (That's why cars can drive over them) The powder of salt is like snow, and most areas, the salt makes hexagonal honeycomb-type shapes on the top layer. I read that this salt lake was created as a result of a larger salt lake slowly decreasing in size after much of the water had evaporated (thousands of years ago). What was left was this smaller salt lake, with a higher concentration of salt.

During the rainy season (which is NOW), there is a layer of water over the crust of salt. The water and the reflection of the salt make the salt lake like a big mirror, and the sky reflects perfectly onto the water. Its spectacular and surreal. When you are driving through it, you feel like you are driving through the sky and if you look far into the horizon, you can't tell where the land ends and the sky begins.

http://image.guardian.co.uk/sys-images/Travel/Pix/pictures/2004/02/17/saltflats8.jpg

http://www.expemag.com/medias/n02/bolivie/8.JPG

http://www.exodus.co.uk/pictures/vllh.jpg


As if that wasn't magical enough, we got to watch both the sunset and sunrise in the salar, and we sat in amazement as the setting and rising sun coloured not just the sky but also the lake in all hues unimaginable. It was absolutely breathtaking.

And as if THAT wasn't enough either, it happened to be a full moon that night we spent in the salar. The moon was so bright that you could see clearly outside with just the light of the moon. I think it was double its actual brightness because of the light that reflects off the water as well.

It was definately a highlight of my Bolivian adventure. If someone were to ask me "Where do you recommend I go in Bolivia?", I wouldn't even have to think about it to answer "Salar de Uyuni". Its truly magnificent and an out-of-this-world experience!!

My only regret is that I did not get to see the lakes. I hear they are fascinating as well, so it looks like I will have to make my way down there once again sometime.